Do you love watching the sunrise over water? Moreover, having the joy of seeing it set over water on the same day? And without being on a boat! Then this might be the journey for you. Joyce and Halewijn are the hosts of Jade Sea Journeys and it was here, at Lobolo Camp, situated 11 kilometres from Eliye Airstrip on the Western shore of Lake Turkana, that I met them. Lake Turkana, previously referred as Lake Rudolf, and only renamed in 1975, is the biggest permanent desert lake in the world, with a shoreline longer than Kenya’s coast with an average width of 30 kilometres. It is also the most saline of Africa’s large lakes. At Lobolo Camp, there is a choice of six tents you can stay in, all made from metal poles, and so nothing is destroyed from the forests surrounding them. All the tents have relaxing views looking out towards the lake, birds and possibly passing camels.

In amongst the doum palms, close to the shore, Lobolo Springs comes bubbling out and flowing into Lake Turkana. Other than a few springs, the Lake is the only permanent source of water in the area. Local people still have access to the water, and though being crystal clear, it is purified further to attain a more healthy mineral balance for guests of Lobolo Lodge. Joyce and Halewijn tend to this oasis and forest as if it were one of their children, making sure that everything that drops from the palms is left lying, able to return to the earth and feed it for future generations. If you are a beachcomber wandering the shore, you will find the area is rich in geodes, meteorites and semi-precious stones such as amethysts and garnets.

There are three National Parks, Sibiloi, Central Island and South Island on Lake Turkana, and we departed from Lobolo Camp in mid-afternoon, after the water had calmed, to Central Island, which is five square kilometres in area - established in 1983. The island is actually a dormant volcano with at least ten smaller and larger craters, both above water and submerged. So in fact, though it seemed as if we were cruising around separate islands, these were merely satellite outcrops, and all part of the same island. Occasionally, sulphurous steam and smoke is emitted from the volcanic vents, creating a ghostly luminous glow at night.

At Central Island, hundreds of Pink-backed Pelicans, Great and Long Tailed Cormorants were nesting on the islands surrounding Central Island, but we also saw Little Egrets, Egyptian Geese, Kingfishers to name but a few. If you visit between March and May, which is coming up soon, you’ll be able to see European migrants, using the islands as resting spots, as they head north to the Omo River, which they follow. Because of the close proximity of the Omo, you might also see specialty birds such as Skimmers, the Great Black-headed Gull, the Lesser Black-backed Gull, the Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Carmine Bee-eaters and Masked Larks.

If Central Island itself does not appeal to you, and if you prefer a lusher environment, you can follow the birds going back to Europe along the Omo River. Jade Sea Journeys will arrange a five-day, or more, boat journey for you that includes food, accommodation, in their tents, and your Ethiopian visas.

These may look like samoosas, but add a bit of soy sauce, and these ‘hot out of the oil’ delicacies quickly turned into Chinese egg rolls! They were a wonderful welcome when we stepped from a 40-minute boat journey, first from Lobolo Camp, and then another hour around Central Island.

Once on Central Island, we were free to have sundowners, fish or just enjoy the view. The lake is noted for being the only known location of a genetically pure species of tilapia. The island is uninhabited, though occasionally visited by fishermen, and Joyce and Halewijn pride themselves on making as little impact on the environment as possible. “Everything we take out there for guests comes back with us.”

Camp beds with mosquito netting had been set-up under the stars, but because of recent rains, most people chose to retire into tents raised after dinner. Sometimes the Turkana area receives rainfall as seldom as once every five years, but this was not one of those times. I decided to brave the elements. How could I pass up the opportunity of listening to lake water lapping gently on the shoreline to lull me to sleep? I received only a light shower that I fended off by pulling one of their cozy sleeping bags over my head. In addition, even though I am a light sleeper, the next thing I knew, it was morning. Clouds broke open to reveal a magnificent sunrise that cast its glow not only on Lake Turkana, but also on one of the crater lakes that we were to discover walking just a few hours later.

In the morning, we took another boat ride, this time merely to save our feet excess work from the trek we were to make to two of the three craters, which are filled with water; lakes within a lake. One is extremely alkaline, and often attracts Lesser Flamingos, while the cliffs surrounding it are nesting sites of the Eurasian Spoonbill.

Lake Turkana, which is Africa’s largest Rift Valley lake, has in the past had a world’s record population of anywhere from 10,000 to 20,000 crocodiles. Halewijn is quick to point out that the numbers of crocodiles are no longer here. I felt honored to see four.

As we looked from the top of one crater to the expanse of the Jade Sea, as it is sometimes known, one of the guests cried out, “This looks like ‘Loch’ Turkana!” If it had not have been for the crocodiles, turtle and warm weather, there was something about the landscape that did resemble remote areas of Scotland.

Meals were a delight, with a variety of meats and local fish. Dinner ended with a flourish with chocolate mousse and liquors. The following day at lunchtime, there was even ice cream! How it stayed frozen on the island, is anyone’s guess…

You cannot see it from Central Island, but on the Eastern shore of the lake is Sibiloi National Park, where you might want to continue with your expedition with Jade Sea Journeys. Established to protect unique prehistoric archeological sites, the Koobi Fora deposits have contributed more to the understanding of paleo-environments than any other site on the African continent. Among the finds have been a set of crocodile jaws over 5 feet long belonging to a 45 foot long prehistoric ancestor of the crocodile, a three million year old giant tortoise shell, and a huge tusked ancestor of the elephant. Today, the animals you’ll find are the very rare Striped Hyena, leopard, lion, hippo, Lesser Kudu, Grant’s Gazelle, crocodiles and a variety of venomous snakes including spitting cobras, black mambas, puff adders and carpet vipers.

A few days in Turkana could easily turn into weeks, as you meander from one sun-drenched site to the next, all the while watching the sun touch one horizon and then another. My idea of heaven!